Opentracker mustang

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Opentracker mustang

The old Mustangsandmore. Currently the Search function is inoperative, but we are working on the problem. Please join us at our NEW Mustangsandmore. Please notice this is a brand new message board, and you must re-register to gain access. This makes a night and day difference to my car! I would recommend anyone to buy or make ones to add to their car.

opentracker mustang

The difference is dramatic, but may be the same with brass ones too. Driving impressions: Woweee! With stock suspension, tires and stock sway bar which I just noticed has the rubber starting to crack and only upgrading to a heavy-duty export brace it corners and tracks down the highway flat and straight. In town you notice it a bit while maneuvering the lighter steering feel helpsbut at street legal highway speeds and better, the car feels more like a new car than a 40 year old car.

Now I need a set of lower bias tires so I can get rid of tire roll. I chose to have them made for me as I didn't have time, experience nor equipment to make them properly.

I installed them last night at a buddy's house and was able to test them last night. I knew why I was replacing the perches when I removed them. Not only did the stock ones not pivot, they were stuck at an angle where the spring had forced them to sit. The product: The spring perches are just like the pictures in a link posted earlier.

They are welded well and finished with a black enamel paint. Installation: Installation requires removal of the wheel, the shock cap, shock, spring and old spring perch.

The process is simple and straight forward, but helps with few tips The old spring perch bolts are pressed in and don't unbolt from the top--there are castle nuts that unbolt from below. It helps to jack the wheel up a bit to access the underside of the upper A-arm. Modifications needed: Because the center shaft housing is larger in diameter than the originals, Opentracker crimps the center to clear the two shock bolts.

I had to give each side a good whack with a wide flat screwdriver where the crimp is to give me a bit more room.By simplyjDecember 2, in Technical Forum. I'm going with a custom coilover system similar to the ron morris setup eliminating spring perch. I was originally going to convert my lower control arm with the opentracker roller kit as well as installing adjustable strut rods either opentracker or DIY however have seen a few installs of the CPP mini subframe kit.

I like how it has a mounting plate tying together the front frame rails as well as eliminating the strut rods alltogether. I've seen good reviews of the CPP kit, but have always been a little wary of tubular control arms versus stock stamped ones for a car that will do street duty.

The car is being built as a weekend driver in a light pro touring style. Mostly spirited street driving with maybe a few HPDE days here and there.

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No one there had road tested it yet though. Damn that looks like a great kit though! I wish i would have seen this 6 months ago before i ordered my new stock style setup. I hate the design of strut rods! Making the lower arm triangulated and stiffening the subframe in the process, seems like a no brainier!

Everyone on the forums talked of this HUGE gain with roller perches alone I just don't feel it. My car's stock setup was so worn it was practically falling off the car! I figured with everything i did the car would be a night and day differenceit isn't. Ive added the CPP control arms on my 69 No road time yet. Im installing a Unisteer rack also.

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Other than that the install isn't bad. The only problem I see with the kit is the Ball joints. I think the Tapper on the Ball joints are to small. Seems like my Spindles sit to low on the Ball Joint.

I've called them a few times and they say its ok. But I think its going to be problems down the road. I like the Idea of removing the Strut rods also.

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I have been dealing with several customers about that ball joint issue. Do not drive the car like that. From what I have found out, they did NO testing on the arms before they put them on the market. The sleeve and ball joint they used are the wrong ones and they don't seem to want to fix it. A couple of our customers are pulling the CPP stuff and putting our parts in. There is bind with their set up and there is little adjustment for the alignment.

All you have is the eccentrics at the two mounting points. There is some adjustment for the camber but not for the caster.

I have been told that their response to that question is that the caster is pre-set, you get what you got.Forums New posts Search forums.

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Opentracker UCA vs. Global West UCA.

opentracker mustang

JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. May 26, 11 29 Louisville, KY Visit site. I'm gathering parts for a front-end rebuild for my 68 coupe. I would like to drastically improve road handling, and would like to do some novice road racing in the future. But, that's quite a ways off--at least a few years.

There's a lot that I want to do the car, and it is going to take a while. I know the cost difference, but will I only feel a significant difference if I'm all-out racing? Budget isn't crazy-tight, and there's not a deadline, so to speak, to get the car done. It's a long-term project.

I'm trying to get an idea if I want to save a little longer for higher-end pieces, or if it's not really worth it unless I'm flat-out on the track. I appreciate any feedback, and please let me know if I need to give more info.

Opentracker Member. Feb 4, 0 It's all about camber curve - how much you want and how much your willing to pay for it? The ORP street arm is just that, an arm for the street. It has the stock ball joint angle and works well with the standard upper arm mounting point or the 1" drop. The GW arm has the ball joint angle change built into it also but is tubular instead of a braced stock type arm.

The ORP and GW arm will both give you better performance than a stock arm mounted in the stock location. We have a new arm out called an Autocross arm. It has the ball joint angle change built in with the bracing on the side rather than under the arm.Last post by jiffy in Re: Cleaning the barn ou Last post by peterp in Server down on April 04,PM. Last post by shaunp in Re: 78 Mustang drive tra Last post by gbader in Re: Might need my 65 fin Last post by jiffy in Re: Last post by booah in Re: Anyone bringing in a Last post by chevy in stolen 67 mustang fastba Last post by jbb in Re: exhaust for mustang Last post by Megzee67 in Wheel and Tyre suitabili Last post by 66coupe in Re: Transfer of historic Last post by peterp in Sunday 5th April to Sund Last post by Dwayne in Re: Mustang Nationa Last post by my in Re: Tassie Trip fea Last post by shaunp in Yella-terra billet steel Last post by mwizz in Re: Looking to buy eithe Most Online Today: Mustang Forum - Index.

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Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance

Log in Register. What's new. New posts. Log in. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter cmayna Start date Jun 10, Before he started spending lots of money experimenting with different coil springs, he decided to consult with suspension guru John Dinkel of Opentracker Racing Products.

John had recently developed a simple yet effective modification that moves the front spring perch outboard by 1". John knew that we were working on Jeff's car at my work this past Saturday so he sent us one of his prototype templates on Friday overnight Thanks John!! Unfortunately we ran out of time on Sat after playing around so long with the caster and camber alignment project, so Jeff and I came back on Sunday to start the perch relocation project.

Moving the perch requires drilling new holes in the upper control arm 1" outward. The template that John loaned us, fastens to the current perch holes in the arm. Here's some photos:.Our specialty.

How to Remove the Front Suspension From Your Mustang EPISODE 326 Autorestomod

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Jady Korzan. Business Dev, HomeVist. Plans and pricing. Pricing: Start with any plan — upgrade or downgrade at any time. We offers subscription packages for any budget.Roller Perch rebuild kits for sale: I have for sale all the parts you need to convert stock or aftermarket spring perches to roller spring perches.

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This kit includes two 3" long honed and fitted bearing journals that are ready to weld into the perches, four high quality RRS bearingss, four press in mounting studs, four locking nuts, and for centering washers to drill out the perch body. Note: Some aftermarket perches use metric shafts which are to small to fit snugly inside the bearings. This is a valid point and warrants routine checks of the perch on a mildly regular basis to ensure that it is still functioning the way it was intended to.

This routine preventative maintenance should not need to be carried out any more regularly than the checks normally made on ball joints, tie-rod ends, or control arms. The static load capability of the bearing used should be adequate, especially considering the following info: There are two ways to approach this, first of all with a spring rate of lbs, it takes lbs of pressure on the spring to compress it 1 inch. The compression ratio should be a smooth curve sloping up so, in theory, each 1 inch compressed should require the sum of the first compression weight and the last compression rate, which should be greater than the rate preceding it.

To put it another way, it may take lbs to go 1-inch, lbs to go two inches, and lbs to go 3 inches. With all that said, a new spring probably doesn't compress more than 2" during normal driving.

That would make the static load between lbs. Because these numbers are educated guesses, I will go with the higher number of lbs. The typical rrs bearings will handle a static load between and pounds. There are two bearings in each perch, which each take half of the compression load, effectively cutting the pressure in half.

So each bearing is capable of handling lbs and only receiving during brief extreme situations. Also, during extreme compression, the bearing is moving more and achieving some turning radius, thus transferring pressure to several balls in the bearings. Lastly, due to the continuous pressure from the spring and the give that the spring provides, there would never be any jarring or impact force applied to the bearing. Roller Spring Perchs Made by Opentracker:. Here we have it a completed pair of roller spring perches ready for instillation.

Disclaimer on Daze Tech Tips. Original Brass Bushing Spring Perch. Opentracker roller spring perches: The concept of putting a bearing in the classic Ford spring perch was first introduced by John Dinkel. He invented them and I give him all the credit. Over the years he and I have become friends as we both have the same goal of making classic Mustangs handle better. The following article was written with his blessing so that anyone who wants to make a set of roller spring perches has the info needed to do so.

Many Ford cars, from the Falcon to the Granada, use spring perches bolted to the upper A-arm that serves as a bottom resting point for the coil springs. The design of the spring perch, through its ability to rotate back and forth as the A-arm travels up and down, allows the coil spring to move with more consistent vertical travel through compression and decompression.

This allowed for a smooth rotation but had the downside of needing regular greasing and considerable friction between the surface of the bushing and the journal it rested in.


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